Day in the Life: an aspiring boulderer

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Douglas Smith

REACHING UP: Lomeli leans on a massive climbing hold as he gazes to the top. He usually gets up at 5 a.m. every other morning in order to practice as soon as the Austin Bouldering Project (ABP) doors open. “I’m inspired to climb every day I crawl out of bed, especially knowing that there are people out there who make their living off of climbing for outdoor companies,” Lomeli said.

Cara Andres, Photo Essay Editor

Powerfully grasping for rock climbing holds, dynamically reaching for new heights, and gaining both patience and strategy through trial and error — these are the daily activities of boulderer, senior Chris Lomeli.

“Climbing is a sport unique in that the only true competition to be had in the sport is against yourself,” Lomeli said. “When I climb, I never do it to be better than anyone other than myself.”

Although Lomeli was introduced to rock climbing in the sixth grade, he only began to take it seriously when he received a membership at Austin Bouldering Project (ABP) last April.

“I’d always loved the thought of outdoor climbing ever since I was first exposed to it, but sadly it’s hard to be organized enough to go and climb outside.” Lomeli said. “I turned to bouldering as a result of that.”

Bouldering is a specific style of climbing that takes place both indoors and out. Boulderers tend to climb short “problems” rather than climbing entire, long, pitches, and do not use a harness.

“Bouldering is based a lot on powerful and explosive moves while sport climbing is focused more on endurance,” Lomeli said. “I think of it almost as sprinting versus running a marathon.”

Instead of attending formal lessons, Lomeli learned how to climb simply through experience and observation. In order to improve, he often practices at his gym and receives information from his friends on how to complete a climbing challenge, which is known as “beta.”

“To encourage and motivate, we alternate attempts on the same problem and shout beta and encouragement from below,” Lomeli’s climbing friend, Harrison Morgan said. “It’s easy to lose your way when you’re maxed and giving a 110%, and a little guidance and motivation can be the difference in a send versus a fall.”

For the past six months, Lomeli has been waking up at 5 a.m. every other morning in order to practice at APB. When he’s not at the gym, he trains at home, climbs on the greenbelt, and researches interesting places to climb.

“If anyone were to look at Chris when he is climbing they would smile because he carries this palpable lively energy that spawns from him,” senior Carissa Duran said.

In the beginning of October, Lomeli attended his very first bouldering competition. He initially planned on signing up in the intermediate bracket, but all the spots were already full.

“I was forced to enroll in the advanced category,” Lomeli said. “I was incredibly nervous.”

To prepare for the competition, Lomeli spent a month and half running miles and meticulously strengthening his fingers, arms, legs, and back. His efforts paid off immediately with a 10th place  finish among 82 total competitors in the advanced bracket.

“The experience really helped me see the potential I had to grow and develop myself as an even stronger climber,” Lomeli said.

To this day, Lomeli puts 100% into improving himself through climbing. Climbing has taught him how to have patience, face challenges, and remain determined.

“Chris never stops surprising me with what he can accomplish,” Chris’ dad Oscar Lomeli said. “I always tell him he can do anything he sets his mind to.”

UP CLOSE: Lomeli grasps onto a climbing hold as he catches his breath. He finds it hard to get bored of climbing because of how much variety it has. “There’s always another challenge,”Lomeli said. PHOTO BY Douglas Smith
WARMING UP: Stretching is something most boulderers deem very important before climbing. He does this in order to loosen up his muscles. “I did yoga two nights before my competition so my muscles would be nice and loose for my climbing,” Lomeli said. PHOTO BY Douglas Smith
CHALK HANDS: Boulderers covers their hands in chalk before beginning an obstacle. It helps them get a better grip at the holds. “When climbing, sometimes my failure on a wall forces me to examine the way I’ve been trying to complete the problem,” Lomeli said. PHOTO BY Douglas Smith

 

CLIMBING TO SUCCESS: Lomeli tackles an obstacle. His struggles show him ways to achieve. “Patience is something every climber needs,” Lomeli said. PHOTO BY Douglas Smith